Its been a great fall for surf here on the Outer Banks. It’s had its negatives. There weren’t so many ridable days due to all the onshore winds. The wind blew onshore for a solid month in October and November. But, then the wind went offshore. There was big storms and deep low pressures. The waves seemed bigger when I was younger, this year not so much. 5 days this fall were at least ten foot and fairly ridable. Also, the swells didn’t lack in power. One of them in particular was extremely heavy. That one day had the most current and was the hardest to get out ever. I got denied at least five times. It can be disheartening knowing that all that energy you just wasted trying to get out, and running back up the beach, should have been spent fighting the current to hold your position long enough to find a wave. It was nothing to see a wave with a lip as thick as three foot. A strong current was constantly ripping out directly on the takeoff zone. The rip was being held in place by the down the beach current being funneled through a big hole in the first jetty. I saw at least three waves as thick as 5 foot. They weren’t very ridable, at least not paddling in. I made one smaller barrel but mostly I was just getting pounded. I even broke my favorite short board on the second wave I caught that morning. I was real upset about it. It was a great day.
Sure most of this fall was kinda sloppy with side offshore winds on the good days and no there wasn’t many good waves to be had during each session, but when the good ones did come, they were real good. They were big, powerful, and hollow. Surfing is a waiting game and you have to be patient if you want a good one. Especially around here.
There was the one classy sort of big day. It was a combo swell and know one knew were to paddle out. In the morning we tried S-turns. It was all right but a little closed out. The best wave I ridden went to a bodyboarder early in the morning before everyone got out. He got in early on a grower and backdoored a nice section. That wave broke perfect. That afternoon we surfed a rarely ridden bar way down the beach at the lighthouse. The winds were straight offshore and there was some great barrels coming in. Again, it was inconsistent but I’m not complaining. Brett was on his A game. I saw him get a real good one. I was out the back but I could tell that the wave bit the bar well. Fisher and Cash were both on it too getting plenty of barrels. I think everyone that paddled out at the lighthouse that afternoon got good barrels. All Eight of us.
Then there was the day that Jesse Hines came down. He might be turning into a cyborg with all the metal, injuries, surgeries or whatever but his surfing doesn’t show it. I think he is only progressing. His wave knowledge and patient are remarkable. There is a yet to be seen photo of me sitting on the shoulder claiming a barrel of his from that day. That wave was insane. I couldn’t believe he even made the drop. He got shacked but ended up just getting clipped on the end of it when the wave hit a rip. When he went by me I thought he had already made it. And so it goes. Still it was one of the sickest waves. Seeing him get that barrel made my session. My attitude changed from crowd frustrations to getting zoned in right before dark, just in time to get a good one. Hence my clip.